Wednesday is market day in my neighborhood.

It’s after 11:00am. I run a few errands navigating through the crowd on le Carreau des Halles (the outdoor market). I pick up local apples and Batavia lettuce from the maraîcher.

Inside les Halles, the covered food market, I stop by the stall of a charcutier-traiteur and order a favorite salad (taboulé aux agrumes,) two slices of pork roast, a small serving of brandade de morue and a leek quiche.

“Merci d’avoir cuisiné pour moi!,” I shout out as I step away. “Avec plaisir!” he says with a wink. He knows I don’t like to cook. I started buying that delicious salad when I didn’t live in town yet and visited on day trips from Paris between lockdowns to house-hunt.

I just stepped outside les Halles when I hear my name: “Coucou, Véro!”

I turn around. M.C. a local friend is standing behind me, next to her “caddie” (grocery cart.) She is older than me and much shorter too. In the US most friends of mine looked like amazon women. Times change. Now, I occasionally get to feel like one too.

We start chatting (even if we are scheduled to have dinner together later this week).

After a few minutes, she asks: “Un p’tit café?

Sure, why not? I don’t need to rush back home. I’ll be back at my keyboard soon enough.

We pick a local café near les Halles.

Bistro chalkboard menu with the menu du jour

A popular place for locals. I don’t think I’ve ever seen a tourist there.

Patrons stand at the counter, enjoying a glass of wine. L’apéro is not just for dinner after all. A couple are playing a popular game, “Amigo.” Their eyes constantly move from the TV screen where winning numbers are announced, back to the card where their bets are listed.

Bistro patrons during l’apéro enjoying a scratch off - hands scratching tickets and drinking wine

M.C. and I catch up as we sip coffee (“une noisette” for me).

Ten minutes later the door next to me opens and a tall guy comes in. He orders: “Patron, une Magali!”

A generous glass of chilled rosé magically appears on the counter.

He turns around. We realize this is Y., one of our hiking friends.

“Une Magali?,” I inquire. Y. is more than happy to enlighten me. Domaine Figuière, located between Toulon and Saint Tropez. Excellent AOC wines, not always easy to find.

M.C. looks at me. Should we…?

Of course, we should. “Patron, deux Magali s’il vous plaît!” Two more.

After the first sip, I decide I really like this nice southern gal named Magali.

We toast. We chat with Y. for a while, ignoring a merry group of men (including a butcher) and their friendly banter at the counter.

The hands of three friends toasting with glasses of rosé in a cafe bistro in Tours, France

Then Y. leaves after gallantly picking up the tab. “C’est pour moi!”

M.C. looks at me again. Are you hungry? Should we…?

Of course we should. This place is a little more than just a café. L’ardoise”(the day’s specials) is enticing and the food, the owner claims, fait maison.

Besides, after meeting sunny “Magali” we are both interested in spending more time in the Mediterranean.

The Marmite Espagnole (Spanish kettle) beckons: Roasted guinea fowl, chorizo, red peppers, steamed potatoes, green peas. How bad can it be?

As it turns out, it’s delicious!

Empty glasses of rosé on the bistro table and patrons standing at the bar

No more rosé. We’ve decided to be good. The day is not over yet, and it is a work day for one of us at least.

“L’addition, s’il vous plaît.”

We pay.

French newspaper on the counter of the bistro

Meanwhile, the rowdy group at the bar is incensed: le Patron has just turned on the news on the giant screen TV. The French president is about to speak. “Arrête-moi ça. Tu vas nous couper l’appétit!” (“Turn it off. You’ll ruin our appetite!”) Le Patron complies. He winks at his partner. He was just teasing. It worked.

Fact: Not everyone is as popular as Mademoiselle Magali in Tours, Loire Valley, right now.

C’est la vie.

My French life.

Véronique - France with Véro
Véronique of France with Véro

Véronique of France with Véro

Vero shares her homeland weekly on social media with virtual tours, photo essays, live events and other publications at France with Vero. Learn more.

Or click a link below to read the next (or previous) post...allons-y !


  1. Danyel on March 27, 2023 at 2:10 pm

    C’est parfait pour moi!! 🙂

    • Véro on March 27, 2023 at 8:52 pm

      Alors tout va bien. Merci Danyel!

  2. Camilla Fennell on March 27, 2023 at 4:09 pm

    Felt like I was there with you. We so enjoyed our jaunt through Les Halles last year and our time in Tours. Your new website is excellent, so easy to navigate and I really like the MENU. Still more exploring to do but I give it a 10out of 10!
    Very well done!

    • Véro on March 27, 2023 at 8:51 pm

      Thank you very much Camilla. You probably walked straight past that café last year! Thank you for the kind words about the new site. A labor of love but it was worth it! A bientôt.

  3. Connie Fenner on March 27, 2023 at 7:37 pm

    Ahh…a wonderful little story of French life. Thank you Vero

    • Véro on March 27, 2023 at 8:52 pm

      Bonjour Connie. I am happy you enjoyed my little story! Thank you for stopping by.

  4. Debbie C on March 28, 2023 at 7:50 pm

    Thanks for the tip! We learned something new and are now in search of this rosé Magali here around St-Remy.

    • Véro on March 30, 2023 at 9:33 am

      Let me know how you like it! Enjoy Provence.

  5. Melva O’Connor-Rafuse MJ on March 29, 2023 at 12:34 am

    What a delightful “morceau de la vie francaise”. I felt like I was sitting at that table with you “pour jazzer”. Melva

    • Véro on March 30, 2023 at 9:33 am

      Ha. That’s the idea MJ. Glad you enjoyed your visit.

Leave a Comment

Join la Mailing List

Be the first to read stories and travel tips I don’t share anywhere else!

No spam, ever. That’s a promise. Visit the Privacy Policy.

Les Catégories