A French family reunion in the Perigord
My French family has been the main reason for my annual trips home over the last two decades. France has been the other one. Most trips take me back to Paris, because my parents, my brother and his family all live there. I may surprise some “Parisophiles” when I say I relish the {too rare} opportunities to stray away from the French capital and explore la province. 2017 was a good year: I was able to attend our extended family’s annual reunion in the beautiful Dordogne region, otherwise known as le Périgord. Even if many in our tribe became adopted Parisians a long time ago, our roots are Mediterranean, and for the French part at least, securely grounded in the southwest.
“Je viens du sud, et par tous les chemins, j’y reviens.” (I come from the south and all roads lead me back to it.) – Michel Sardou
This is not to say it was easy to get to le Périgord to be reunited with my French family. I stayed in Bordeaux for a few days, then traveled east to Sarlat, and finally arrived in Montignac, where my cousins live and where they organized the reunion. I was not driving, and had to be creative. When you leave Paris and travel around la province, especially in the countryside, taxis or Uber drivers can become as elusive as bérets on Parisians’ heads. Trains get slow and connections complicated. From Bordeaux to Sarlat, I used the wonderful BlaBla car carpooling service. I lucked out. My drivers were a fun, well-traveled, retired French couple. My fellow travel companion a young waiter, Maxime, on his way to his summer work assignment. For over two hours, we shared plenty of “blah-blah,” discussing life in France and in the United States, French and American wine, our families, and more. We took a mid-morning break on the side of the road and our hosts served coffee and a light breakfast, des viennoiseries, of course. Didn’t I say I lucked out? My cost for the trip? 15.50 Euros (about $19.) Experience? Priceless. Bienvenue en France, French Girl in Seattle!
My travel companions, Jean, his wife B. and Maxime. Merci BlaBla car!
Montignac is a charming town in le Périgord, about 12 miles north of Sarlat. It is located by the Vézère river, and surrounded by lush scenery. A walk around town, along peaceful streets lined with the occasional 14th century timbered house, delivers the same message heard in so many villages and towns all over southern France: “We are old, older than the château ruins you see in the distance. We are quaint. History happened here many centuries ago, and our buildings and small museum tell the tale. Take a walk across the bridge. Rest inside the church for a while. Real people enjoy simple lives in this town, shared with their families and neighbors, living off the produce of the land found at the market. They play rugby on the weekends. A couple of our native sons may have found fame in the big city. They are remembered in a street name or on a plaque on the side of a building. Some of us may never leave. Ici, c’est chez nous (this is home.)”
Le lavoir (old wash house)
“What does a French family reunion involve?,” you might ask.
First, a welcoming place where several generations (including young children) can meet and socialize casually over a holiday weekend. The problem with such a large group: The gîte-like accommodations (semi-detached villas) where we stayed on the outskirts of Montignac did not provide such a gathering space. This was not a problem for my cousins, who know their way around town: They rented a large room from the local rugby club. The tables could be set up indoors or outdoors. It was perfect!
As you may expect from a French family, a significant amount of time was spent eating (mostly pot-luck style) and drinking. 100% of the meals started with the traditional apéro (aperitif.) Some of us enjoyed impromptu apéros while walking around town too. There is something about a French café terrace on a quaint small town square (la place du village,) that is impossible to resist. That is my theory, and I am going to stick with it!
Fénélon: The local aperitif (walnut wine, crème de cassis, Cahors wine)
Munchies…
A more sophisticated apéro
Potluck is great, but catering works too. Paella!
One group, “les sportifs,” got together at my cousins’ home and organized a table tennis tournament. My favorite aunt, in her early 90s, played – and won – one round.
Allez, Tata!
Meanwhile, “les touristes” wandered off, camera (or iPhone) in hand, to stroll around Montignac. Look at these: Can you blame us?
We piled up in a car and kept going; venturing off on small country roads, stepping out for short walks and more photos.
Les coquelicots
La campagne
Two cousins, catching up
Of course, in the name of culture, a visit was paid to the new Lascaux International Center for Cave Art (a.k.a. “Lascaux 4.”) If you have already visited the world-famous Lascaux II cave, discovered in 1940 and Montignac‘s claim to fame, prepare to be amazed by the complex, the new replica of the original cave, and the numerous hands-on exhibits. Prehistory has never felt so close, or so familiar.
Lascaux 4: the complex
Lascaux 4: Exhibits
Then again, culture (or art) need not be displayed in grandiose surroundings…
with my sister-in-law, the Selfie-Mistress
A French family reunion is mostly about people spending time together, catching up after many months apart, until they meet again (in this case,) in a small town in northern Spain for a few days in the summer. For this expatriate, who has missed so many gatherings, birthdays and celebrations over the years, this was a special time indeed. My dad turned 80 that month, and it was heartwarming to see the great care every member in our tribe put into making him (and my mom) feel special. From photo albums with sweet handwritten notes telling stories about my parents’ lives, to the beautiful watercolor by my talented cousin (based on a photo of my late grandfather’s store in L’Isle-Jourdain, south of Toulouse, where our French family reunions used to happen years ago,) everything was done simply, yet thoughtfully. It was beautiful!
Some of us, in downtown Montignac
Antoine the rugby player, manning the barbecue
Not all art work sits in museums…
Ma famille (“les Parisiens“)
Merci Montignac, et à bientôt.
La Vézère à Montignac, so mad it turned red!
Dear readers:
The French Girl in Seattle blog has just turned 7 and will be getting a new look in 2018! If you enjoy looking at France and all things French through the eyes of this French native, consider signing up for la Mailing List (on this page,) to receive new stories first via email, or join me daily on Instagram (@Frenchgirlinseattle)
If you enjoyed reading this story, let me know in the comment section below, (I love discovering your messages,) or share with a friend! Merci.
All photos by French Girl in Seattle, C. Redor or J. Radegonde. Please do not use text or images without permission.
Or click a link below to read the next (or previous) post...allons-y !
46 Comments
Leave a Comment
Join la Mailing List
Be the first to read stories and travel tips I don’t share anywhere else!
No spam, ever. That’s a promise. Visit the Privacy Policy.
Excellent report Second to None !
Merci beaucoup Rémy!
LOVED the pictures. One side of our family lives in France In Charente-Maritime and we treasure our times together there.
And you live in beautiful Seattle – best of both worlds I would say. I lived near Tacoma for several years – ahhhh when that Mountain shows her face – breathtaking.
Again loved the pictures.
Suz
Bonjour Suz. I have not visited la Charente Maritime for many years and need to work on that soon. The Seattle area is beautiful indeed, but it does not facilitate family reunions, which is unfortunate. A bientôt!
Merci!! C’etait merveilleux! J’aime beaucoup les photos. Ma famille me manque, et j’ai besoin d’alle les rejoinder en Provence. Je vous remercie. Celia m’a render heureuse at Trieste!! ????
Je comprends Michelle. Il est très difficile parfois, d’être éloigné de sa famille, surtout pendant des périodes prolongées. J’ai eu la chance de pouvoir rentrer en France chaque année depuis mon installation aux Etats-Unis il y a plus de 20 ans. Mes parents sont aussi venus me rendre visite pendant longtemps. A vous souhaitant de retourner bientôt en Provence, mes amitiés.
Les choses les plus simples sont les plus intéressantes. Merci
C’est bien vrai. Merci Nicole.
Wonderful post! You trip looked quite fun. The photos are wonderful. Thanks so much for sharing.
Thank you for continuing to follow French Girl in Seattle on her adventures, Debra.
Your photos are gorgeous. They really capture not only this region but also the essence of France’s quaint everyday beauty.
If this is how you feel, then I reached my goal. Getting francophiles to visit areas outside Paris or Provence is often a challenge. Merci Jacqueline.
Just lovely. How wonderful that your extended family not only keeps in touch but also gets together.
Based on your earlier post about Sarlat, which was the final coup de pouce on top of everything else I had read, we were going to stop in Sarlat on our way home from the holidays. But Carmen interfered. We could barely see the road, and wandering around a village was out of the question in the déluge. I can’t wait to get back, and I definitely want to see Lascaux, too!
Good for you! Do return to le Périgord when you can. It is worth a detour, and more. A bientôt!
This post brought tears to my eyes – what a lovely family and what a lovely reunion! The tears came because I ache for at least a part-time life in the French countryside. Good food, great friends, beautiful architecture – the freedom to walk and talk through quiet streets and to explore the countryside and learn more about my beloved France – ah! Someday for me, I hope.
Someday for you I hope as well, Debra. A bientôt.
Your dad looks fabulous for 80.
I think so too, and will pass it on. He looks very happy in all these photos. Merci Janice!
Merci, merci, c’est un beau cadeau-partage, cet article, French Girl , pour moi qui aime tant Sarlat, la Vezere, et le Perigord en general. Chanceuse de pouvoir renouer le contact une fois par an. Merci, et bravo ♥
Avec plaisir, Lise. Je me rends en France tous les ans, mais je ne peux pas assister à ces réunions de famille la plupart du temps. C’est pour ça que celle-ci était très spéciale, et il était hors de question de la manquer, puisque nous avons célébré les 80 ans de mon papa.
Wonderful story of your travels, and is really enjoy your writing and pictures! Merci!
Avec plaisir Lisa. Merci de votre visite.
Loved the pictures and the story of your visit with your lovely family. Merci!
Thank you for following mes “aventures Périgordines,” Albert!
Loved this. I’ve traveled a bit in France (Provence, Bordeaux) on several trips — and have been to Paris a few times (renting an apartment there twice). Don’t know when I’ll be back but at my age (80), think it would be wise to plan something this year.
Bonjour Jeanne: My Dad turned 80 last year, and he still travels. So does my favorite aunt, in her 90s, pictured in this story playing table tennis. Bon voyage!
While we all know how wonderful Paris is, I have a very special place in my heart for the Southwest of France. I spent several sommers in Bordeaux and have memories that will last a lifetime. I have visited the caves and they are amazing . Oh and the quote by Michel Sardou who ismy favorite french singer . I really enjoyed your family reunion and look forward to more of your adventures ..
It sounds like this story was perfect for you, then, Robin. Thank you for joining me!
Thank you for sharing your lovely Family and the great story and pictures.
It’s been my pleasure. Thank you for joining me on this adventure in “la Province.” A bientôt.
Beautiful photos, beautiful family! You are blessed. Thank you for sharing this wonderful occasion. I enjoyed every minute! Andi
Merci beaucoup Andi. Glad you could join me and my family during our “Cousinade.”
I enjoyed this article, and the photos. Thank you!
Avec plaisir, Debra.
You keep writing. I keep reading! I may have to stay more than the two months in France to see it all. I want to see everything and go everywhere. I am so looking forward to April when my husband and I travel to France (mostly). The people, the places and the adventures we will enjoy for sure.
Yes Ma’ am! Keep reading. I will keep writing.
Bonjour Veronique! Geeze I had no idea you had gone to this part of France! Finally getting back to your roots girl! 😉 It was super nice to see this. It touched my heart. I felt that family reunion. It’s been too long for me. You represented a typical french gathering perfectly. Love that and I miss those times. After my french grandmother died – it broke up the family. The inheritance etc…So I play diplomat and go to cousins to cousins to say hi. But that gets expensive. Especially now with the government shut down! How will I travel? =( xox Sandy
Bonsoir Sandy. Great to see you here again! I know you have enjoyed some of these French gatherings too over the years. I am a big proponent of staying connected with one’s roots, in spite of time, distance, family feuds… or government shut downs. Keep visiting la Belle France!
What a beautiful town and good reminder to get to small towns.
comme c’est sympathique and heart warming to watch the beautiful pictures of your family reunion!!! you made me want to go back to my roots in Metz, but its just not the same since my parents passed away. I will see my baby brother this summer and he will come visit us in Arizona in the fall with his wife. We do what we can. I moved in the US 38 years ago and i feel french and american at the same time, a leg in each country and my heart in the middle….not always easy,, but doing my best, on day at a time, and one voyage at a time too! Your blog is full of such helpful infos like babacar, that I did not know. Thank you for sharing the knowledge et les petits trucs.
Amicalement, Nicole
Thank you so much for your message Nicole. It means a lot. I appreciate all of my readers’ comments, but those coming from expats who live away from France, like myself, are even more special. One day at a time… Bonne année !
oops, not Babacar, ca c’est une chanson de ma chere France Gall, mais BlaBlacar.
J’avais compris, Nicole. Super chanson, d’ailleurs!
je viens de e lire en essayant de traduire et suis ravie de voir combien de personnes aiment tes articles qui dé peignent si bien la France c’est un régal!!tu ferais une super journaliste!!!! bravo ,ma fille bises mom
I think it’s magnificent that you have started your blog and we can also follow you through social media. Showing us such beautiful places and talking about all things French, really rewards us who cannot otherwise know this insider information on beautiful France and Paris. And of course seeing about a real French family. Merci for this opportunity! I hope one day to be able to go visit all those great places.
Merci beaucoup Maria. Feel free to tag along any time!