Rain and milder temperatures are back.


Along la rue Montorgueil peace has returned. A handful of”terrasses” are still busy this late at night on a Thursday.

It’s been a hectic week with a national strike impacting locals’ life.

“Les éboueurs” (garbage collectors) are on strike, protesting the reform of the French pension system. Overflowing trash containers can be spotted all over the neighborhood blocking sidewalks. One reason to be grateful it’s not summer.

Yet “en terrasse” no one seems to mind.

The pervasive smell of cigarettes so prevalent during the “apéro hour(s)” has dissipated. Tourists have gone to bed, exhausted by another long day walking miles along the city streets.

It’s mostly Parisians now, native or adopted, enjoying a late dinner or night cap and a beloved ritual, good times spent “en terrasse.”

On the way to my temporary home, I am still thinking about the excellent play I’ve just seen along le boulevard Bonne-Nouvelle nearby.

In the background, the subdued chatter of conversations, the sound of clinking glasses.

Théâtre. Terrasses. Tensions sociales.

I smile. In Paris, some things never change.

Véronique - France with Véro
Véronique of France with Véro

Véronique of France with Véro

Vero shares her homeland weekly on social media with virtual tours, photo essays, live events and other publications at France with Vero. Learn more.

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  1. Janet on March 27, 2023 at 2:38 pm

    Thanks for this thoughtful portrait of a nighttime scene in Paris.

    • Véro on March 27, 2023 at 10:00 pm

      Avec plaisir, Janet. Thank you for stopping by.

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