Chez Gaston, les Batignolles
2024 update: This article was written in 2017. The restaurant has since then been completely updated yet remains a popular eatery in les Batignolles.
A few days ago, I took you along as I explored one of Paris’ most charming neighborhoods, les Batignolles. The area offers an eclectic mix of eateries from traditional bistros and cafés, to hip restaurants and bars popular with the younger crowd, including Bobos (bourgeois bohemians) who have discovered the neighborhood in recent years. There are established businesses and newer, trendier places. I was introduced to a local bistro by a friend, (veteran blogger Peter Olson, of Peter’s Paris,) when I visited in December 2015. The bistro was named la Bonne Heure. Le cadre (the environment,) was pleasant, and the decor fittingly consisted of a collection of antique clocks. The food was traditional, tasty, and served in generous portions. Peter goes there often, usually in good company. He is lucky to live in the heart of le village des Batignolles.
Two bloggers meet in Paris at la Bonne Heure, December 2015
Last month, during the Holidays, I spent a few days in les Batignolles, and Peter and I returned to the restaurant for dinner. I learned it had been under new ownership since July 2016 and was curious to see what changes had occurred. The bistro is now known as Gaston. The decor has remained the same; and the plates are still named La Bonne Heure. The new manager and his partners clearly intend to follow in the footsteps of the previous owners, offering home-made, fresh, and well prepared traditional dishes at reasonable prices. One of my favorite parts about traveling is connecting with people. There are many good restaurants in Paris (and as many average ones.) What sets the good ones apart (other than the food) can be something as simple as a great memory, or a connection made with a stranger, whether a staff member, or another diner. Chez Gaston I met Rachid, the new manager, who is friendly, attentive, and knowledgeable. Rachid hails from Burgundy. He has had an interesting personal and professional life, but for the purpose of this article, let’s just mention he is a trained chef who has worked in the kitchens of renowned establishments like the Bristol or the George V in Paris. He scored big time with this French Girl when he brought up he also worked in Toulouse (my hometown) for several years. Rachid heads a team of 10 people chez Gaston (the restaurant is open daily from 12:00 to 10:30pm.)
Rachid and part of his team, Gaston, Paris
It’s easy to see most clients are regulars. The room is not big, and reservations are recommended, especially for dinner.
Rachid, working the room, with a smile
More clocks… and l’ardoise, with the day’s specials
That evening with Peter, I savored a favorite traditional French dish, le pot-au-feu. The meat melted in the mouth. I was not surprised to hear one of Rachid‘s partners is a wine-maker who also raises cattle in the Burgundy region (the famous Charolais breed is from that area.)
Pot-au-feu, the stuff French expats’ dreams are made of
The mouth-watering dessert was le Baba-au-rhum.
Pictures speak better than words
Gaston is part of an endangered species in Paris: the convivial, laid-back bistro, where friends meet over a delicious meal with fresh food, lovingly prepared, and presented simply but attractively. The icing on the cake, (especially in an up-and-coming neighborhood like les Batignolles,) there is no sticker shock when l’addition arrives, with a smile. Quand on aime, on ne compte pas. When you love, the cost doesn’t matter. I returned to Gaston once again before I left Paris, this time for lunch, with my parents. We made a few selections among les plats du jour, and a pichet of Girardin wine, from Burgundy.
Rachid le Bourguignon promised his Oeufs Meurette were winners. He was right.
An uncommon fish, Maigre (drum fish) served with sautéed mushroom and a shellfish sauce
Crème brûlée with lime zest
What did my guests think? Again, pictures speak better than words.
Happy diners chez Gaston
My family and I enjoyed each other’s company (I was scheduled to fly back to the US two days later,) as much as the delicious meal and our conversation with Rachid, who took the time to chat (and connect) while delivering excellent service. Finally, l’addition arrived, with a small surprise, “un cadeau de la maison” (on the house,) une excellente fine de Souillac the perfect digestive for guests from southwestern France.
“Tous pour un; un pour tous.”
Gaston still feels like a best-kept secret, mostly enjoyed by locals, but the excellent reviews I spotted online are bound to attract a clientèle coming from outside les Batignolles. One always hesitates to share such special news with a large group of people. Locals will have to forgive me. I like to support young entrepreneurs, especially those who have made the challenging restaurant business their calling.
To Rachid and his team: Merci, bonne année, et à très bientôt, lors de mon prochain passage à Paris.
— French Girl in Seattle
Gaston
11 Rue Brochant, 75017 Paris
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Will have to put the restaurant on my list. What a wonderful looking place. I am familiar with Peter. He just gets better looking all of the time! Janey
Merci de votre visite Janey. I am sure Monsieur Olson will be delighted to read your comment. Bon weekend!
What a pleasure to admire those delicious photos!
Especially that first one: you look “divina” as we say in my country and…having dinner with the proverbial Mr. Darcy, no less! 🙂
As for the food I see, it looks delicious of course, but…very familiar…They are part of the French-British heritage in the culture of the countries that belong to the Rio de la Plata basin.
Your narrative is impeccable, as usual. Thank you so much, Madame Veronique.
Maria
P.S.
I’d like to share with you this little piece of music called “Le Cygne”, written by a compatriot of yours, the revered Romantic era composer, Camille Saint-Saëns.
Monsieur Camille wrote the melody especifically for violoncello, with accompaniment for one or two pianos.
Many musicians have produced arrangements for the keyboard of this sublime piece: Lucien Garban, Leopold Godowsky and Alexander Siloti among others.
I chose Godowsky’s version because Russian composer Sergei Rachmaninoff liked it best.
Camille Saint-Saëns-Le Cygne
http://youtu.be/Cw_yDcwzuHo
played by Wibi Soerjadi, born March 2, 1970 in Leiden, Netherlands.
Last but not least, what an adorable couple make your “mamita” and your “papito”.
Dear Maria. Merci de votre visite. I have been blogging now, on and off, for over 6 years. I know my blogger friends would agree readers like you are a rare breed online today. They take the time to visit; read and appreciate the narrative; and leave thoughtful and informative comments. I am listening to le Cygne as I type this. I was not familiar with Godowsky’s version. Thank you for sharing it. What a beautiful piece! You are correct, my “mamita” and “papito” are, indeed, adorable. I treasure the time spent with them during my too short visits. You are incorrect, however, about the gentleman pictured at the beginning of the story. He is, of course, the famous Peter Olson, and like everyone who has been lucky enough to explore Paris with him, knows, the most gracious guide (and dinner companion.) Peter is not, however, Mr Darcy. Mr Darcy, you see, remains the Holy Grail, the shining and unattainable light many women – including this French Girl – can only dream about. It is my hope that Elizabeth Bennett will get distracted and look away for a few minutes one day, just long enough for me to finally approach Mr Darcy and make him my own. L’espoir fait vivre, n’est-ce-pas? Bonne année, Maria. I hope you return soon.
Hoping to visit your suggestion when visiting France in 2018. Thank you for sharing & yes, I hope it doesnʻt change before I go there.
Avec plaisir. I don’t think Gaston will change. They have a winning recipe, and many patrons to prove it. Why would they? Bon voyage!
Merci for part 2. Gaston looks like a great place to dine.
Avec plaisir Cherie. Gaston is a wonderful place. I hope you and Steve (or you and Marita) get to visit one day. Bonne année !
Great post French Girl! I will definitely put this on my list. That pot-au-feu is one of the best I’ve ever seen!
Merci Corey. Yes, do pay them a visit, and don’t forget to ask for “de la fleur de sel” when you order that pot-au-feu!
yapas àdire tu as le chic pur mettre l’eau àla bouche de toustes’leceursbravo!!!