Le Tabac “les Sablons”

Rue des Sablons, Paris, 16th arrondissement, Porte Dauphine neighborhood, December 2024.

Paris is a lot more than the shades of grey in its perpetually depressing skies (“la grisaille.”)

A discerning eye spots patches of color.

Cream, on the humble limestone façade reminding us that even in this affluent part of Paris, next to majestic buildings and embassies, real life happens.

Yellow, for the “boite aux lettres” (mailbox.)

Red, for the win:

The front door and façade of an establishment that is more “café” than brasserie.

The stern “Sens Interdit” sign reminding drivers their options are limited.

Red, for the familiar “Tabac” sign, heralding a cornerstone of French life.

That sign’s named “la Carotte” in fact, a reminder of a not-so-distant past when sheets of tobacco leaves were rolled in a carrot shape, tied with a spring, to be smoked or chewed later.

If you sell tobacco in France (and many still do) you must have that “enseigne” (sign) above the front door. It’s the law.

It often lights up after hours, a reassuring beacon in the dark Parisian night in the heart of winter.

The establishment is named “Les Sablons” a familiar name in the affluent western part of Paris, a reminder of the former sand quarries once located nearby. They helped build the city.

In 21st century Paris where so many neighborhoods seem to have turned into postcards for tourists it’s reassuring to see “le buraliste” (the tobacco shop) still has a social role to play.

This is where regulars meet for a small cup of strong coffee (best enjoyed at the counter,) to read the newspaper or to catch up on local gossip.

Red again, like the wool hat and scarf of a gentleman who stubbornly chose to sit “en terrasse” and seems surprised at the news.

Red, like the scarf of a middle-aged woman assisting a stooped, struggling elder as they cross the street ever so slowly.

Ainsi va la vie, à Paris.

Such is life in Paris, a few minutes away from the crowded Trocadero, world-class museums and the most famous local old lady, Gustave Eiffel’s tower.